Have You Heard the News!
The Jan 31 issue of the Wine Spectator is beginning to make declarations as to the quality of Oregon's 2007 vintage. They urge consumers to horde the '05's and '06's, produced during a run of good vintages. " The run ends in 2007 " states The Wine Spectator. Apparently we got a little bit of rain here in Oregon during harvest. I was there. I cannot honestly say that the conditions were ideal nor can I say that any of the stories I can tell, nor none of the ones I have heard justify this:
" Winegrowers slogged through mud to salvage what they could. Some producers picked early and will make some nice wines, but they will constitute a minority."
Today I had the opportunity to meet with a dozen winemakers and taste some of the wines of the 2007 vintage. We assembled at a nearby winery at the invitation of its owner. Winemakers were invited to bring either a beauty ( nice wine ) or a beast ( something that needs work ) for a group tasting followed by a candid discussion. Though several of the wines had noticeable flaws, the wines actually showed very well. Many of the issues will likely be cured as the wines mature. Others will need a little help. What I found most interesting is that very few of the wines seemed diluted by the rains. Instead most of the comments centered around green tannins, and acid issues. Don't get me wrong, the 2007's are not going to be the most concentrated wines Oregon has produced ( think 2001 ) nor are they insipid and watery. They are elegant and I thought that is what Pinot noir is supposed to be.
These wines have only been in barrel for 3 months, most not yet finished with Malolactic Fermentation. Making judgements about a wine, much less the quality of an entire vintage, at this stage in it's development is simply not fair. The wine has too far to go.
Don't write '07 off. Oregon will make some beautiful wines in 2007, despite Mother Natures best efforts. They are different than what we have been making in recent vintages. Most of the winemakers I know are very excited. We are looking foreword to what the wines will become. We hope that consumers will taste the wines, finished wines that is and judge 2007 for themselves.
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6 Comments
Reader Comments (6)
Don't have the new issue yet. Who is writing this?
Not that I'm surprised, but it appears that wine journalism is subject to the same asinie TMZ.com-like urge to get the sensational scoop on whatever developing story. Oh, well. We can always print a retraction. After all, it's easier to ask for forgiveness than to wait and print something thought out and verifiable...
I finally got the new WS and I was equally puzzled by what seem like sweeping generalizations about the vintage.
Additionally, I was particularly interested in Laube's column where he vents about being blamed for the over-ripe and high alcohol trend in California.
This happens every year, '05 was the same way. I just think it is a bit irresponsible to take such stances at what 'professionals' should know to be a poor time to judge a wine and a vintage. To make statements that would cause consumers to tune out before the wines are even through with thier malolactic fermentations, stikes me as a form of market fixing. All I can say is that enthusiasm here in oregon is very real, savvy and well equiped producers will make lovely wines. Winemakers and harvest teams labored hard and never gave up on the vintage, nor should anyone else at this point.
Speaking from the perspective of someone who spends much of every day trying to keep a wine publication current and ahead of the turn, I think there is much to be said for the "get the scoop" mentality.
Arthur,
You make a good point. I do think the "get the scoop" approach needs to be balanced a little bit more by something thoughtful, researched and thorough. Unfortunately for Oregon we get one issue a year to have our story told. These "get the scoop" kind of headlines and bold printing are much harder for us to overcome than for other regions, I believe. Because I'm in Oregon I sometimes get the feeling that there is a seperate universe going on from what is being reported. Oregon is a small industry and I don't expect the major publications to open offices here but I do wish there was more of a "from the trenches" approach.
This blog fills the "in the trenches" spot beautifully. I think you should aslo write an article (about this, and other topics) and submit it to several places, Appellation America being the foremost b/c they focus on terroir.
Also go here (http://wine.appellationamerica.com/wine-writers-index.aspx) and scroll down for the contact infoto get you to create a profile. That will increase your visibility and exposure - both for you, your blog and your winery.